>>101958
Essentially. It also helps a lot if you choose your light carefully. Lights designed to be attached to rifles normally have a reflector or lens that projects a narrow intense beam rather than a wide one. They're spotlights, not floodlights. This is to give them hundreds of meters of reach after dark. Pistol lights are mostly designed to be floodlights, to flood a wide area nearby with light. Rifle lights have big numbers when we measure candela, but not necessarily when we measure lumens. Pistol lights are all about moar lumens and tend to be unimpressive when we measure candela. Of course, it's easier to get both measurements up with a rifle light, because it doesn't have to fit in a holster.
Strobe functions annoy me. I am not sure they're more obnoxious to the recipient than to the shooter. And whenever I see it advertised I wonder how easy it is to turn on the strobe function by accident.
Oh. Every "gun show special" rifle light has a curly cord and a tape switch that you're supposed to install with cheap double sided sticky tape (that may hold for about fifteen minutes). It's cargo cult design, very very mall ninja, visual cues and design cues from 1st gen 1990s rifle lights. People who use rifle lights for "work" usually run lights with just a clicky button on the tail cap. Very knowledgeable people have told me that there are two reasons for this. One, when you're setting up an ambush in the Hindu Kush at 2am local time, accidentally turning on the white light at the wrong time, even for a tenth of a second, gives away the whole team's position and can get you all killed. Two, even the expensive tape switches are not very reliable or durable. The only guys running tape switches in that world have them wired to an infrared laser they are using to aim with infrared goggles. If it tuns on for a moment, Hadji can't see it, so it's no big deal.
